Flour matters....Cake flour loaf on the left - Bread flour loaf on the right

Ingredient Function Friday - Bread Flour, October 20, 2017

October 20, 2017

Hello Bakers,

Welcome to Ingredient Function Friday's Recipe Recap.

Here is a recipe recap of how I compared using bread flour and cake flour in a simple bread recipe. Let's look at what happens when cake flour is used in place of bread flour.

The recipes:

Bread Flour Version: 350g Bread Flour, 250g water 85 degrees, 7g instant yeast and 7g fine sea salt.

Cake Flour Version: 350g Cake Flour, 250g water 85 degrees, 7g instant yeast and 7g fine sea salt.

Hydration is 71%

Mixing time: by hand (old school) with a dough whisk and bench scraper, 2 minute mix in bowl then kneaded by hand 6 minutes until both doughs were smooth and resilient. BTW I needed to add a little flour when kneading both doughs by hand. I used bread flour with the bread flour test and cake flour with the cake flour test.

The cake flour test dough felt more slack - less resilient then the bread flour version. The stronger the flour the more bounce we get.

Proofing time 45 minutes - that's how long it took for them to be doubled in size. The cake flour loaf was not as voluminous as the bread flour loaf.

After that they were gently degassed and rounded into two boules (balls) I did skip benching them - it is ok to do that with round breads and rolls - I think. But not for other shapes of loaves and rolls.

Then I proofed them in the proofing bags for 30 minutes - it was warm in the kitchen. They both looked like they "had taken a breath and held it" and had a slight marshmallowy texture. The bread flour loaf looked normal and the cake flour one had a weird texture. This might come from the cake flour being bleached.

In the proofing bag....thank you Ziploc...

Now for baking - 375 for

Ready to bake - the surface of the bread flour cracked a little and see the odd texture of the cake flour loaf....but they are the same size now....

Next I dusted them with flour and slashed the surface with a bread knife. Then I baked them in a 375 degree oven, convection on for 40 minutes. Here are the results.

The bread flour loaf has a golden crust and a good crumb - the hydration was low, 71% so I was not expected big air holes in the crumb. Still you can see the cake flour loaf has a cottony crumb and had no crust color. Bleaching flour removes all the… — The bread flour loaf has a golden crust and a good crumb - the hydration was low, 71% so I was not expected big air holes in the crumb. Still you can see the cake flour loaf has a cottony crumb and had no crust color. Bleaching flour removes all the carotenoid pigments.

Bakers, that's the recipe recap for today's Ingredient Function Friday. I hope you enjoyed learning about bread flour.

Until next week.

Happy Baking!

Colette

Oatmeal Cookies with Golden Raisins and Cranberries - chockful of goodness!

September 21, 2017

Oatmeal cookie lovers - this one is for you.

Hello Bakers,

Where do the best Oatmeal cookie recipes come from? Usually from simple sources. When queried many pros will say "Joy of Cooking", "my grandmother, the back of the Quaker Oatmeal box and Fannie Farmer's baking book. No Larousse, no Lenotre, no Le Cordon Bleu - this is an American cookie.

Perfect to tuck into a lunch box or to enjoy with a tall glass of milk.

As a kid, I made the recipe off of the Ouaker Oats container - but it spread a little and I as advanced in skill and knowledge it bothered me. But for the most part in the years when I was cooking and baking all over - my customers were perfectly happy with that cookie. Oatmeal cookie lovers are rarely super picky - they are happy with sweet crunch of butter, sugar and oatmeal - perfection is rarely a thing.

Teaching at Le Cordon Bleu years, I didn't make them - they weren't in the program - French cookies were. And honestly bakers, I baked and cooked so much at work in those years that I didn't bake them. I missed them.

They did appear in the Art Institute intro to baking class - the recipe provided was great, so I went to work on a new one with the help of Chef Wong. I added the cranberries when I started to bake for the pastry case.

Here is that recipe - scaled down from the one that I bake for the case. I think you will like it bakers. Another cookie for your repertoire. Can we ever have enough?

Let me know if you have questions and please let me know how your baking is going.

Happy Baking! Colette

Equipment:

Stand or handheld mixer, spatula, scoop, one or one-half ounce, 1-2 sheet pans lined with parchment paper, scale and teaspoons.

Yield: 13 cookies with a 1 ounce portion scoop (Baker’s Dozen or 26 cookies with a ½ ounce scoop. Note: this recipe can be doubled or tripled.

Ingredients:

4 ounces (114g) butter
3.5 ounces (99g) granulated sugar
3.8 ounces (108g) brown sugar, light
1 egg
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
5.3 ounces (151g) cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
5.25 ounces (149g) cups rolled oats

2 Tablespoons (1 ounce) 28g milk
3 ounces (85g) dried cranberries
3 (85g) ounces raisins (I use golden)
3 ounces (85g) chopped nuts—walnuts or pecans (optional)

1. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt together. Set aside.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment combinebutter, the sugars and the vanilla.

3. Mix on low speed until the ingredients are roughly combined and then increase speed to medium and mix for 2 minutes. Scrape down.

Butter, sugar and vanilla are creamed until the butter is fully incorporated but it is not light and fluffy - sugar feels gritty - that's correct for cookies.

4. Add the egg, mix on low speed for 20 seconds, scrape down, mix on medium speed for 25 seconds. Scrape down.

Dry ingredients plus milk, raisins and cranberries waiting their turn...

5. Add dry ingredients. Mix on low speed 30 seconds.

6. Add oatmeal. Mix for low for 30 seconds. Add raisins, cranberries and optional nuts. Mix on low speed until all the ingredients are incorporated but do not over mix. This can even be done by hand with a sturdy spatula.

7. Drop the dough with a cookie scoop onto lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving about 1 1/2 inches between each ball of dough.

Bake the cookies in a preheated 350°F oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they're golden brown. If the bottoms of the cookies are becoming too dark then double pan and finish baking.

Remove them from the oven, and place the pan on a wire rack.

Store them in an airtight container. Also the dough and the baked cookies both freeze well.

Creamsicle macarons - the perfect end of Summer flavor

August 29, 2017

Hello Bakers,

This week - it's macarons. This is a flavor inspired by one I taught at Sur La Table a few weeks ago. For those of you who have mastered macarons - can we ever have too many flavors?

In class, we tinted the simple almond shell orange and paired it with an orange buttercream. It was good but I knew we could make it better and more authentically "creamsicle".

Remember running after the ice cream truck? I do. My favorites were rocket pops or "creamsicles", tart orange popsicle outside and creamy vanilla ice cream inside. Yum.

To translate that into a macaron, we need to get some orange flavor in the shell and a creamy vanilla flavor inside.

Orange extract or orange blossom water is going in the shell and a creamy vanilla buttercream filling will be sandwiched in between.

You could take this even further and make ice cream sandwiches with good vanilla ice cream. Macaron ice cream sandwiches keep, for a least a week in the freezer, but there is no way they would last that long.

Let me know if you have questions.

And if you would like a set of Macaron templates sent to you - just email me.

Happy Baking!

Colette

“Creamsicle Macarons”

Makes 26-28 cookies

Note: recipe may be cut in half

Equipment:

Stand or Hand held mixer

Large bowl

Flat rubber spatula

Food processor

Piping bag

#12 Wilton tip or Ateco #803 or any plain round tip with a 3/8” diameter opening

Eye dropper – optional but good for adding color and flavor

2 Half sheet trays lined with parchment or Silpats.

Ingredients:

150g powdered sugar

85g ounces almond meal

85g ounces egg whites

Pinch cream of tartar (1/8 teaspoon)

75g ounces granulated sugar

½ teaspoon orange extract or orange blossom water

Orange gel color

Preheat oven to 325 degrees (conventional) 300 degrees (convection).

1. Layer the powdered sugar and almond meal in a food processor or mini-prep fitted with a metal blade.

2. Pulse the powdered sugar and the almond meal in a food processor until the mixture looks like fine meal. This takes about 15 seconds or 8 pulses.

3. Using a stand or hand held mixer, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium speed until they look frothy and no egg white liquid remains. They will still have a yellowish cast and no structure.

Egg whites and cream of tartar - ready to go....

4. With the mixer running, add the sugar slowly. Once the sugar is added turn the mixer on to medium high speed.

5. Continue to whip until the meringue is soft and shiny. At this stage it resembles “marshmallow fluff” and does not form a peak.

6. Stop the mixer and add color and orange extract.

7. Turn the mixer to high speed, whip the egg whites until the mixture begins to look dull and the lines of the whisk are visible on the surface of the meringue.

8. Now check for peak. The peak should be firm with the angle supporting the peak at 11:30. (see photo) Transfer to a medium sized bowl.

9. Fold in the almond meal and powdered sugar in three increments.

10. Paint the mixture halfway up the side of the bowl, using the flat side of your spatula. Then scrape the mixture down to the center of the bowl.

11. Repeat 2-3 times then check to see if the mixture slides slowly down the side of the bowl.

12. Pipe on parchment or Silpat lined baking sheets.

13. Slam the tray, hard, 4-6 times on the counter. Then fist bump each side of the tray twice. (see photo)

14. Let dry until they look dull but not overly dry. **Drying time varies on humidity.

In a dry climate the macarons can dry in 15-20 minutes and in a humid climate it can take 35-40 minutes. But never dry them for more than an hour.

15. While the macarons are drying, preheat the oven to 325 degrees, 170 Celsius, Gas Mark 3

16. Place on the middle rack of the oven.

17. Check in 11 minutes.

18. If their tops slide then bake for 2 -3 more minutes. They should release from the parchment or Silpat without sticking. Check one or two. If they stick put them back in the oven for 1-2 more minutes.

19. Let them cool for a few minutes before removing from the Silpat or parchment paper.

Filling:

Not so Sweet Vanilla Buttercream

Yield about 12 ounces (340g)

Equipment

Stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment

Spatula

Ingredients

4 ounces (114g) butter, not overly softened but not cold

8 ounces (227g) powdered sugar, sifted

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons Amoretti or other vanilla extract

1 tablespoon sour cream or yogurt

1. Put the butter in the mixer bowl. Mix on low speed for one minute, change the speed to medium speed and mix another two minutes

2. Stop the mixer and add half the sugar. Mix on low speed until the sugar is incorporated, then mix on medium speed for two minutes.

3. Add the second increment of sugar. Mix on low speed until the sugar is incorporated, then mix on medium speed for two minutes.

4. Add the vanilla and sour cream mix on medium high speed for four minutes.

This buttercream will keep in the refrigerator for one week and in the freezer for one month.

Thaw it overnight in the refrigerator and paddle it in the mixer on medium speed before using.

Fill, chill for a little while to let the filling set up and enjoy...

The Nutella Heist Chocolate Roulade- Happy Summer Baking!!!

August 22, 2017

Not a glamour shot - but isn't a great thing to have a simple and delicious dessert ready and waiting?

Hello Bakers,

Did you know that last week, the Italian newspaper, Corriere della Serra reported that a truck full of Nutella was stolen in central Germany - roughly 6,875 large jars of Nutella - gone. Daniel, my husband from Milan, told me about it. I quickly looked it up in English. The Guardian newspaper reported the heist as well. As of this writing the Nutella has not been found and the bandits are also still at large.

Reading about the heist inspired this blog post and a recipe that is perfect for this time of year.

This was the size of the truck filled with 22,000 pounds of Nutella.

These are the dog days of August. It is not the best time of year to fire up the oven and heat up the kitchen. The Nutella Heist cake features a roulade (rolled) cake that you can get in and out of the oven in under 45 minutes. It looks more labor intensive then it really is. Rolling cakes can seem intimidating but once you do it a few times it is easy.

I teach the rolling technique in my Craftsy class "25 Essential Baking Techniques" the cake, in the video, is a vanilla scented sponge roll.

Here is an affilate link and a discount off that class if you are not already enrolled.

http://craftsy.me/2nu9Qun

This cake is a great technique builder and good practice. It can be made hours in advance and is sure to impress and delight your family and friends. The Nutella whipped cream is delicious and you can use it for other things - and it takes no time to whip cream. The cream and the Nutella are whipped together - just like the recipe for Tiramisu filling posted back in June.

Please try this delicious cake. Let me know if you have questions. Send photos - it would be great to get the "first post" contest back up and running.

See you next week with a back to school macaron recipe...

On a side note bakers, I am working on developing a podcast about baking. The podcast will be filled with baking history, science and tips. I will keep you posted on the podcast's progress.
Happy Baking!

Colette

The Nutella Heist Roulade Cake

Equipment:

Stand or handheld mixer

Whisk attachment

Spatula

Half sheet pan – lined with the bottom with parchment paper,

spread with softened butter or pan spread

Parchment paper

Ruler or better still a yard stick cut in half

Ingredients:

Chocolate Sponge (Biscuit)

Oven 350 degrees

2.25 ounces (64g) egg yolks

4.5 ounces (128g) whole eggs

3.75 ounces (106g) sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste

3 ounces (85g) egg whites

1 ½ ounces (43g) sugar

1 ½ ounces (43g) pastry or cake flour

1 ½ ounces (43g)Dutch process cocoa powder

(For later) 1-2 ounces (28g-57g) granulated sugar for unmolding the cake

1. In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, ribbon the yolks, whole eggs,sugar and vanilla extract until it holds a three second ribbon. It should be thick and pale yellow.

2. Scrape the ribboned egg mixture into a medium sized bowl if you do not have an extra mixer bowl. Wash and dry your bowl and whisk.

3. In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment whip egg whites on medium speed until foamy, like cappuccino foam add sugar and whip until it forms a medium peak.

4. Sift cocoa and flour together 3x.

5. Add 1/3rd of the egg whites to the ribboned egg yolks, add the rest and mix lightly until just a few streaks are visible.

6. Sift the cocoa and flour the egg mixture, in three increments.

5. Scrape every bit of batter into the prepared pan. Spread to the edges and then smooth the surface with an offset spatula. Clean the rim of the pan with your thumb.

Bake for 12-14 minutes. Cake is done when it springs back lightly in the center.

Cool in the pan for 10 minutes.

Make Filling:

Equipment:

Stand or handheld mixer fitted with whisk attachments or standard beaters

Ingredients:

12 ounces Heavy Cream

1/4 cup Nutella - measured in a volume 1/4 cup

1. Combine the heavy cream and nutella in mixer bowl.

2. Whip on medium high speed until mixture begins to thicken. Scrape down and continue to whip until it looks like this. Stay with it as the filling can over whip and break quickly.

It looks very soft but it will thicken as you fill and ice the cake.

To unmold cake:

Tape two 1/2 sheets of parchment paper together and then turn the paper over or if you have a large sheet of parchment - use that. Dust the granulated sugar on top of the cake.

Sugar on top means it will not stick to the parchment paper.

Sprinkle more of the cocoa mixture on top of chocolate layer in pan. Invert layer on cocoa dusted parchment paper. Remove parchment paper from cake and then immediately place clean side down on the cake - this will help you roll the cake.

Spoon cream evenly onto layer, leaving a ½” border on the top long edge.

Leave a 1/2: border on the long top edge and no need to over fill.

Roll lengthwise, enclosing cream by lifting parchment paper gently. Layer may crack so adjust as necessary to keep rolled (not flattened) shape. Trim ends to make neat by cutting diagonally.

Using parchment paper to lift and manipulate roll, turn roll seam-side down onto serving board or platter. Place 2" strips of parchment paper under the cake. Ice the top and sides of the cake. Remove paper strips carefully

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

As I said in my caption this cake can be assembled early in the day or the night before.